From Nassau to the U.S.

As hurricane season had already officially begun, Jeff and I decided to make an aggressive jaunt from Nassau to Charleston, S.C., a trip of over 400 miles. 

Leaving Nassau

We anchored overnight at two remote locations in the Barry Islands. Where was everybody????

Near Hawk's Nest Caye

It was obvious we weren't in season!

Little Stirrup Caye

We then spent a couple of nights in the much less remote Port Lucaya.

From Port Lucaya we headed to the West End for another two night stay in preparation for our big jump to Charleston... a four day three night journey. We provisioned, fueled up and were on our way. 

In those four days we encountered acute extremes in sailing conditions. Two days into our trip we ran into a calm so dead we had to lower all sails as they were limply flailing about only due to wave action. But amazingly enough we didn't have to turn on the engine!!! ... The current and waves were moving in unison and in the perfect direction. We were able drift with the current at about three knots for several hours... A first! AHHHH!... much needed relaxation after alternating two and a half hour night watches. 

When out approximately 100 miles from shore it is easy to see the depth and breadth of storm systems from all directions. The very evening of the day we had enjoyed our "motor-less, sail-less push" we saw an enormous dark threatening system looming along the coast of Florida as far as the eye could see. It was heading in a southeasterly direction.  From our dead calm the winds suddenly picked up to approx 18 knots and we put up full sails in order to get as far away from this monster as possible. We were hoping that this system would move south fast enough for us to miss us. With the waves behind us we were flying at 9 knots. Try as we might, our little boat was no match for the speed and intensity of this storm. We caught the northeast corner of it. Suddenly we were in gale force winds and ten foot waves. We quickly pulled in the jib and fully reefed the main using a preventer to keep it the place as the waves coming from behind could  easily cause an accidental jibe. It was brutal, especially after a couple of nights of two and a half hour watches.  (Note From Jeff:  "I thought it was Fun!!" ) Fortunately we hit the worst of it before nightfall. Exhaustion was starting to set in...

If we had no navigation equipment the large cargo vessels we encountered would have been a really good clue that we were getting closer and closer to Charleston.  Our gal Grace was dwarfed by these "BAB's" (big ass boats)!!!

On the final night of our journey, I was on watch. On radar and AIS I saw a bleep that was getting closer and closer... a little too close for comfort.  Beyond exhaustion at this point I woke Jeff up. The vessel was getting closer with no signs of veering off its course. As a sailboat by all rights we are the "privileged vessel". However the #2 rule of navigation is AVOID COLLISION.  Jeff repeatedly hailed the vessel on our VHF to no avail. At this point this very large cargo vessel couldn't have been more than half a mile away. We couldn't go fast enough to avoid it. Jeff took a spot light out shining it alternatively on our sails and at the pilot house of the cargo vessel. After several tries Captain Jeff finally reached the pilot. The pilot relayed that "he didn't see on on his AIS". Hmmmm.... a vessel that size would have both radar and AIS. While we were speculating that the pilot had fallen asleep at the wheel, he quickly veered away from us WHEW!!!! That was by far scarier than the gale force winds and the ten foot waves. The good news is that some adrenaline kicked in and I was able to finish the rest of my watch without incident.

Come morning we knew we were really close to Charleston. BIRDS!!!!

Getting closer...

Land Ho! I was never so glad to see land. At this point I felt like I had been run over by this barge. Because of all the goings on the previous two nights, both Jeff and I were never able to get a deep sleep when off watch.

Charleston Harbor Marina

That same day we learned that my brother-in-law Gerry, was moved to hospice care. Two days later we drove back down to Florida where we were able to spend time with Gerry before he passed five days later. As Gerry was a navy veteran, when back in Charleston we toured the USS Yorktown, a renowned naval aircraft carrier from World War 11. He would have loved this. Here's to you Gerry!

The USS Yorktown is cozily nestled up to the marina where we were docked. She also sponsors the Charleston July 4th fireworks. We had front row seats for a spectacular display.

Going further back in history, we took a ferry to Fort Sumter where the first shots of the Civil war took place.

Going even further back we toured the antebellum era Boone Hall plantation which formerly housed over three hundred slaves. 

Entranceway to the Boone Hall Plantation

Today the plantation is still working under different ownership. It also prides itself as a museum dedicated to portraying its role in slave history as well as the living/working conditions of the slaves. Each slave cabin serves as a mini-museum depicting different aspects of the slave's lives. It clearly demonstrates a message that the current owners of the plantation are avidly opposed to its historical beginnings.

Slave quarters

Then sadly, in very current events, and in direct and horrible juxtaposition to the plantation owners' sentiment, we walked slowly by the Emanuel African Methodist church. This is the site of the killings of nine innocent African American citizens gunned down by a young "white supremacist". This unfathomably tragic event  occurred within a couple of miles from where our boat is docked.

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In a few days we will head off for the last phase of our journey. For the next couple of months we will be in winding down mode. The plan is to get Grace up to Chesapeake Bay where we will ready her to be stored for the winter and then???…..  

A wondrous journey to all,

Pam and Jeff