Puerto Rico to Nassau or "Grace…A Sailing adventure starring Pam and Jeff Stroberg, props Ricky Warren"

Thurs 5/21

After spending five weeks in Florida we returned to Puerto Real to move Grace north.  Pam’s step brother Ricky agreed to come join us to help move us away from the hurricane zone as the season end was fast approaching.

Ricky is a delightful combination of mirth, adventure, curiosity amd humor  with a lil' wisdom thrown in ;) .  He took it upon himself to write of log of this trip. The following post includes excerpts in quotes - some more edited than others ;) - from Ricky’s log.

"Pam and Jeff picked me up at the San Juan Inter airport and then hightailed it to the Marina to meet up with “Cha” who would be scraping all the crud off the bottom of Grace. Grace had accumulated a fuzzy bottom after spending five weeks in the Marina accumulating algae and barnacles. We motored out to a beach outside of the bay to get cleaned.  Grace dragged her sloggy bottom at 3 knots max.  Cha and I scraped her bottom clean which gained an additional 1.5 knots at the same RPM – that’s a fifty percent increase."

"We tossed the dock lines Friday 5/22 for an 8:30 am departure from Puerto Real. 

It was a calm departure as we motored up the Puerto Rican shore before turning west to go through the Mona Passage.

This would be a 4 day / 3 night sail. As we plunged ahead through the dishwasher seas of the Mona Passage, I soon became quiet and turned green with a tinge of grey - a sure sign of mal de mar." 

This was quite the landlubber initiation for Ricky! The Mona Passage connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Carribean sea. It is fraught with variable tidal currents created by Hispaniola and Puerto Rico on either side of it and by sand banks that extend out for many miles from both coasts. It is considered one of the most difficult passages in the Caribbean.

Add to that, we’ve found that night passages are often disorienting for even seasoned sailors especially on moonless nights when there’s no visual orientation outside of the boat. So Jeff and I took the watches in the wee hours of the night while Ricky took the sunset and sunrise watches. This worked out well. In spite of his malaise, Ricky was a real trooper wanting to carry his weight at every opportunity. Fortunately, as the seas began to calm so did Ricky’s stomach. 

"Monday afternoon we arrived in Abraham’s Bay, Mayaguana which is the first Port of Entry to the Bahamas if coming from the south. We set anchor for the first time after covering more than 400 miles. Right away Pam and I went for a refreshing swim in the crystal clear water.  Then a toast of Café XO Patron tequilla, our glasses raised to good fortune…  “WTFRWE?”’!!!!!!"

We arrived too late to check into customs. Unable to leave the boat until doing so it was easy to find ways to keep ourselves occupied. 

Ricky did laundry

and rejuvenated himself with a good yoga workout.

Meanwhile the Captain enjoyed a much needed R&R break

I busied myself with getting Grace's quarters back into shipshape after her long tumultuous voyage.

As dusk was arriving Ricky whipped out his hammock. It's simply amazing all that he pulled out of his bag of tricks! And after awakening refreshed, Jeff rigged it up.

Not quite!!!

AAAHHHH we could get used to this!

Jeff was forced to chill out again!

The next morning after a fine breakfast,

the captain motored in to shore to check in at Customs. 

After completing the obligatory paperwork and paying entry fees he returned to Grace to pick up the rest of the crew.   We then all piled into the launch.  Land Ho! 

We took a walk,

School

Government House

and found and opened VicShay’s bar to quench our thirst. While there, we asked about the possibility of buying some fresh fish from the local fishermen.  We were directed to walk down the road to talk with Antonio. 

We found Antonio but he had just sold his catch to be sent to Nassau.  He offered to have his wife make dinner for us and eat in their house.  We headed back to the boat

and returned at dinner time

Custom's office
to sit at the kitchen table and watch Vanessa aka "Big Sexy" cook up conch fritters to die for, fried Wahoo, french fried potatoes (next time hold the fries, more fritters!), and garden salad."

 Vanessa loving her craft!

 Two of Vanessa's three children.

"A fan on the floor in front of the back door sent most of the flies scurrying. Only three found the bottom of Pam and Jeff’s plastic wine cups. We even packed up leftovers for Wednesday fish tacos lunch at sea and headed down the rode with the chickens

and back out to Grace in the twilight hours.

Wednesday 5/27 was an early morning departure from Mayaguana to the western shore of West Plana Cay.  Upon arrival we rounded up to anchor in 8’ water. I whipped up fish tacos from leftovers.  After a leisurely lunch we swam ashore against a light smooth, whiter than white sand Marsh Mellow Beach."

Much to our culinary pleasure, Ricky's love of adventure definitely carried over into the kitchen. We enjoyed many a fine repast from our talented "galley slave".

"With little protection from the sea swells and it still being early in the afternoon we decided to lift anchor and move on.  So, a late afternoon departure and we were headed NNW to Rum Cay.  The Crooked Cays were in sight to the west.  That night we sailed under a waxing half-moon.

The dawn broke the next morning with Rum Cay in sight.  The wind had been pleasantly pushing us faster than we had planned.  With no compelling reason to stop at Rum Cay, we continued westerly all day, rounded the north tip of Long Island, past the white light house atop the highest of the white cliffs, and motored past scattered coral heads into Calabash Bay, Cape Santa Maria 

The anchored was set in 10’ of sandy bottom ½ mile offshore Galliot Cay.  I twice dove to set the hook fallen on its side. 

We took the dinghy to shore

where we hauled it onto the beach

and sauntered up the boardwalk to the Santa Maria Resort Bar & Restaurant. 

We shared the bar with an extended family of Arkansan cruisers on holiday, including Mom, Dad, sons and daughters, grandchildren. All 15 had flown into the small airstrip on Long Island. 

We also shared the family’s fishing expedition afternoon catch of grouper served blackened, grilled, and pan fried.  Mighty tasty! 

Pam was the lone holdout dining on lobster and shrimp ceviche.  This was topped off with desert of lemon lava cake with white chocolate and swirled raspberry sauce artfully presented, and shared 3 ways."

I was in utter awe at the creamy fine white sand on the beach. I have NEVER seen or felt anything like it. It was so pristine and soft to the touch...like a fine powdered sugar! Ricky put some in a Ziploc bag to take home….`

"The crew slept long and late the following morning waking up to french pressed coffee flavored with Mayordomo sabor canela Oxocan chocolate, evaporated milk and sweet coconut cream. 

The anchor was pulled up at 16:00 to move on north and west to Nassau.  We would have an overnight stop at High Bourne Cay. The wind died on Pam’s midnight shift.  Grace has been breezing along ALL day at a steady 6 – 7 knots in flat seas.  It was  the most perfect sailing day. 

Pam and Jeff together pilot Grace past the occasional coral head through the High Bourne Cut at 9:00 AM past the marina to behind the island anchoring in a sandy bottom behind Oyster Cay."

After a sweaty overnight sail I immediately donned fins, mask and snorkel, jumped into the crystal clear water and scouted the area. I waved Ricky in with a promise of undersea treasures. We snorkeled past “Big Barry” the Barracuda lurking in wait beneath the keel.

Then we headed on out to a small coral head nearby teaming with life. It was indeed a lush microcosm of multi-hued and varieties of flora and fauna…

The final day of sailing started at sunrise with coffee for all on deck. Jeff and I pulled up the hook, stowed bridal lines, and completed a final visual check. Pam was at the helm.

The jib was let out and trimmed as we motor sailed the remaining 40 miles to New Providence Island."

Here Ricky is learning the nuances of the our navigation system from the Captain.

Early afternoon we pulled into a slip at Nassau Yacht Haven Marina.

Typically the currents and winds are at odds making for difficult docking at this marina. However, we lucked out with the fair winds and fairly calm current. It was easy schmeezy. That evening we enjoyed a delicious meal at the Poop Deck, the Marina restaurant.

Across from Nassau is Paradise Island joined by two bridges. The next morning we trekked across the bridge from Nassau proper to Paradise Island. 

"Atlantis Beach Resort and Casino is made up of twelve towers in three clusters.  The towers evoke an image of flying monkeys whisking Dorothy and Toto to the Wicked Witch of the West."

 It's opulent inside as well as out.

"Back at the marina there are chores to be done.  Polish the chrome, stainless steel welding repair the wheel, Bimini water-proofing maintenance shopping for groceries, laundry, and other tasks not done while underway.  Although the Blue Wave, home of conch master salad maker was closed, our search for cracked conch, lobster tail, and fritters hit payday at Bro B's fish shack under the eastern bridge.   Tonight, I will sleep under the near full moon, and dream of New England."

Ricky left the next morning. We had a great eleven days with my bro serving as crew and galley slave. It is was such fun to share our adventure with someone who is so full of curiosity and a joie de vivre!

A wondrous journey to all,

Pam, Jeff and Ricky